Survival Candle Tutorials

Since Hurricane Irene is presently whipping through the US, I have included links to tutorials on how to make survival candles. Some of these come in handy for heating or cooking!

Candles can obviously be a fire hazard, so don’t leave them unattended and keep the wick trimmed! It’s also important to use a non-flammable container or plate. Tin cans and mason jars work well and are usually easy to find.

Also, make sure you put your candles somewhere safe so that they won’t get tipped over. It would be a shame to survive a storm and then go and catch your home on fire. Ideally, you’ll also have flashlights, but batteries aren’t always easy to find.

At Life Hacker, learn how to make an emergency candle out of a tub of Crisco. Since not everyone has this kicking around, use this as a starting point. You could always stick some shortening/fat in a coffee can and add a string. This candle apparently lasts for up to 45 days.

Find out how to make an emergency light candle on Goldenpath’s Hub Page. You’ll need: a pop can, wick, oil and a glass container. The can becomes the wick’s base after you cut it and create a hole with a nail.

You could also use a bottle lid as the base if you’re looking for something smaller. It’s a very detailed tutorial and quite easy to do. Thanks Goldenpath!

This article explains how to cook with candles on a tin stove. You just need three tea lights and a tin can big enough to cover them. Don’t forget to cut vent holes into the can! If you need a bigger surface, use a bigger can or place a small pot on top of a large coffee can.

If you still want more, see my previous posts on how to make wilderness survival candles and fire starters.

Stay safe friends!

Read These Next

There’s something about eggs that feels timeless—whether it’s a basket of freshly laid ones from the farmer’s market or the dozen you picked up on your weekly grocery run. But let’s be honest, those cardboard cartons aren’t exactly pretty to look at. That’s where this little project comes in: a handmade ceramic pottery egg holder that looks beautiful sitting out on the counter, ready for breakfast or brunch.

This DIY egg holder is both practical and stylish, giving you a sturdy place to store or display your eggs. It’s also a fun way to experiment with clay, even if you’re brand new to pottery. By using a recycled egg carton as a mold, you can easily create those classic rounded shapes without complicated tools.

I love projects like this because they blend utility with charm—you’ll end up with a piece that feels rustic, modern, and completely one-of-a-kind. Plus, they make thoughtful gifts for foodies, farmhouse kitchen lovers, or anyone who appreciates a touch of handmade in their home.

In this tutorial, I’ll walk you through step by step how to transform a lump of clay into a farmhouse-chic ceramic egg holder. Whether you use air-dry clay for a simple weekend project or pottery clay for a kiln-fired piece, you’ll be amazed at how quickly it comes together.

Materials You’ll Need:

Air-dry clay or pottery clay (depending on whether you’ll kiln-fire it or not)
A recycled egg carton (cardboard type works best)
Rolling pin or bottle
Craft knife or clay cutting tool
Water and a small sponge for smoothing
Optional: white paint or glaze if firing

Step 1: Prep Your Carton

Grab a standard cardboard egg carton and trim it down so you only have the section you’ll use for your holder (six-egg size is perfect). If the cone peaks inside the carton are too tall, snip them shorter so the clay will form neatly over the top.

(Refer to image: cut-out carton with holes in the peaks)

Step 2: Roll Out the Clay

Take a ball of clay and roll it out flat to about ½ cm thickness. Keep it even but not paper-thin—this is what gives the egg holder strength.

(Refer to image: hands pressing clay flat)

Step 3: Mold the Clay

Drape your rolled clay over the inside of the egg carton. Gently press it down into the cups so it takes the familiar egg-carton shape. Smooth the edges with your fingers or trim them neatly with a craft knife for a clean finish.

(Refer to image: hand pressing clay into the egg carton mold)

Step 4: Refine the Shape

Carefully peel the clay from the carton. At this point, you’ll have the wavy outline and little pockets where your eggs will sit. Use damp fingers or a sponge to smooth away cracks and rough edges.

(Refer to image: formed clay holder on table)

Step 5: Dry and Harden

Air-dry clay: Leave it out for 24–48 hours until fully hardened.
Pottery clay: Let it dry leather-hard before bisque firing in the kiln. Once bisque-fired, apply glaze (a glossy white looks so modern!) and fire again.

Step 6: Style and Use

Once dry (or fired and glazed), your egg holder is ready to use! It looks beautiful styled on a breakfast table, in the fridge for farm-fresh eggs, or even as a quirky jewelry holder for rings and beads.

(Refer to hero image: finished ceramic egg holder with eggs inside)

Tips for Success:

Don’t roll your clay too thin—it will warp or crack when drying.
For a rustic look, leave the edges organic and wavy.
If you’re painting air-dry clay, a matte chalk paint works best for that ceramic-like finish.

This little DIY egg holder is proof that something so simple can become a handmade treasure. Plus, it makes a brilliant handmade gift for foodies and farmhouse lovers.

Which Clay Should You Choose for Your Egg Holder?

One of the most common questions I get asked is: what kind of clay works best for a project like this? The truth is, there’s no single right answer—it depends on the look and finish you want. To give you a little side-by-side comparison, here are four variations of the same egg holder, each made with a different type of clay.

Polymer Clay – Perfect for beginners or small projects, polymer clay is easy to handle and cures in a standard oven. It gives a smooth, lightweight finish, but keep in mind it’s not food-safe unless properly sealed. Best for decorative use.
White Air Dry Clay – This is the simplest choice if you don’t have access to a kiln. Air dry clay dries naturally at room temperature, leaving a matte, chalky ceramic look. It’s beautiful painted or left natural, though it’s not as strong as fired pottery.
Glazed Pottery Clay (Pink) – For that authentic, long-lasting ceramic finish, pottery clay is the way to go. After firing and glazing, you’ll get a glossy, durable, food-safe piece. The blush pink glaze here adds a touch of softness and farmhouse charm.
Terracotta Air Dry Clay – This clay has a warm, earthy tone that brings out a rustic, Mediterranean feel. Like white air-dry clay, it doesn’t require firing, but it’s more porous. It’s best for decorative displays rather than functional use.

Each version has its own charm, so the choice really depends on your tools, skills, and whether you want a purely decorative piece or something durable enough for daily kitchen use.