Shaving can be tough on the skin — all that scraping, tugging, and heat can leave you feeling raw and irritated. That’s why a good after shave isn’t just about smelling nice; it’s about calming, cooling, and conditioning your skin. While most store-bought after shaves are heavy on alcohol and light on skin-loving ingredients, you can easily make your own at home with just a few thoughtful additions.
This recipe comes from an old Snowdrift Farm newsletter where they showcased Cremophor CO 40® (hydrogenated castor oil), a clever ingredient that allows water, alcohol, fragrance, and menthol to come together in a clear, stable solution. Paired with menthol crystals for that classic cooling kick and panthenol for skin soothing, you get an after shave that’s crisp, refreshing, and genuinely beneficial for post-shave skin.
I’ve included both the formulator’s version (by weight in ounces, ideal if you’re used to cosmetic making) and a home crafter’s version (using spoon and cup measurements). That way, no matter where you are in your DIY journey, you can make this recipe work for you.
Why Make Your Own After Shave?
- Cooling comfort: Menthol gives that instant cooling effect men (and women) love after a shave.
- Skin soothing: Panthenol, also known as Pro-Vitamin B5, helps calm redness and supports skin hydration.
- Custom fragrance: Choose your favorite essential oils — woodsy sandalwood, refreshing peppermint, or calming lavender.
- Clarity & stability: Thanks to Cremophor CO 40®, your after shave won’t separate. It stays beautifully clear in the bottle.
- Cost effective: One batch makes plenty of after shave for yourself or to bottle as handmade gifts.
Ingredients
Phase A
- 3.00 oz. Cremophor CO 40® (hydrogenated castor oil)
- 0.10 oz. Menthol crystals (adjust to preference)
- 0.50 oz. Essential oil or fragrance
Phase B
- 60.00 oz. Formulator’s Alcohol (denatured alcohol or perfumer’s alcohol)
Phase C
- 3.00 oz. Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
- 33.40 oz. Distilled water
Adjustment
- Citric acid solution as needed to bring pH to 5
Method (Formulator’s Version)
- Phase A – Oil Base
- Gently warm Cremophor CO 40 until liquid.
- Stir in menthol crystals one or two at a time until dissolved.
- Add essential oil or fragrance.
- Phase B – Alcohol Phase
- Slowly whisk the alcohol into Phase A. Work gradually to prevent cloudiness.
- Phase C – Water Phase
- In a separate container, dissolve panthenol in distilled water.
- Add this solution slowly to the alcohol mixture while whisking gently.
- Adjust & Finish
- Test pH. If needed, adjust with a tiny amount of citric acid solution until the mixture reaches pH 5 (skin-friendly).
- Bottle into clean containers and let rest 24 hours to stabilize.
Home Crafter’s Kitchen-Friendly Version
If you don’t have a scale or pH meter, here’s a simplified version with kitchen measurements.
- 6 tbsp Cremophor CO 40®
- ½ tsp menthol crystals (or less for a lighter cooling effect)
- 1 tsp essential oil (peppermint, sandalwood, lavender, etc.)
- 1 ½ cups vodka or perfumer’s alcohol
- 2 tsp liquid panthenol
- 1 ½ cups distilled water
- A pinch of citric acid (optional)
Instructions
- Warm the Cremophor until liquid and stir in menthol crystals. Add essential oil.
- Whisk in alcohol slowly.
- Dissolve panthenol in water, then add to the alcohol mixture.
- Add a small pinch of citric acid if your skin tends to react to higher pH products.
- Pour into a spray or splash bottle and let it sit overnight before use.
Tips for Customizing
- Fragrance ideas: Peppermint + lavender for a fresh herbal scent, cedarwood + orange for a woodsy citrus blend, or clove + vanilla for a cozy winter after shave.
- Gift idea: Pour into glass bottles, add a handmade label, and you’ve got a thoughtful Father’s Day or holiday gift.
- Strength control: If the menthol feels too intense, simply dilute with more water and alcohol.
This after shave hits all the right notes — cooling, soothing, and smelling fantastic. Plus, the satisfaction of making it yourself beats grabbing a generic bottle off the shelf any day.